June 2nd-6th
Day 42-46
Edaggee Rest Area 2nd June
Filled up in Denham $1.41lt, Guy at the next pump was up from Perth to get away from the cold weather, but said Denham was just as cold 19-21 deg. I said we’re from Melbourne feels warm for us. Locals say it has been cooler than normal.
Left 10am pulled into Shell Beach. The water flows into the narrow bay from the sea but then evaporates so outgoing flows are restricted, so the water has a high salinity content and very little can survive except for the Fragum Cockle. This bay stretches for 60klm and the shells have built up to a depth of 9mtr over thousands of years.
In my previous post I took a photo of an adventurer on a bike towing a third wheel, well we just past him again for the third time since Kalbarri Gorge. Would love to know his story.
Pulled into Edaggee early afternoon, Sarah had a nap zzzzzz I decided to ride around camp chatting to a few travelers, Reg and Sue, he was a purchasing officer with a group that was involved in mining shutdowns. He told me his story of being a Peggy, for the last 10 years. I didn’t know what a Peggy was, it is a Tea Lady (hence Peggy Lee, rhymes with tea). His boss said he could not find anyone to take on this task for just a one week and would Reg fill in until he employed someone. He hesitated and said I don’t really want to take a drop in pay ($3000 pw), his boss said who said anything about a pay reduction. Reg accepted and when his boss had found a lady for cleaning tables, provide tea and biscuits etc. Reg replied he was happy fulfilling this role. 10 years later Reg retired happy with his no stress job. I said any chance getting my foot in the door? Reg & Sue take off for 3 months a year. He has completed a Lap of Oz for 6 months, but spent 2 years. He has been to three Olympics. 1964, 1976, 2000
Rode back to the van and guess what….. the cyclist had pulled in for the night. Put my bike away, knowing that my story of cycling would never hold a candle to his, I did not want to embarrass my self pretending I’m a cyclist. Okay moment of truth, introduce myself, he says I’m John….time to put into practice Paul what I mentioned earlier… The closed mouth……The restrained tongue…………The capacity for uninterrupted listening.
John originally from South Africa and was a farmer, became a citizen of New Zealand, cycled 11,000 klm around NZ, he is able to freely live in Australia as a citizen of NZ, already done a lap 20k of Australia from Newman to Newman,(mines in Pilbara NW Australia). He visited friends in Perth for Christmas and cycling back to Newman. 1800klm each way.
I mentioned I had friends in America, Peter, Jim, England, Jonathan, Phil, Joe, Eleanor, Martin, James, Australia, Peter, Prue, Garry, Ross Paul (another Paul) who were keen cyclists, I thought to myself, don’t include yourself among the elite like John.
He continued to tell me his story, he had completed 1 x Ironman, but had a serious accident, that’s the end for him. After the swim (3.8klm) he was in 128th place, by the time he got on his bike he was in 28th place (ave 38klm/hr), he started his run got up to 9th went too hard and slipped back to finish 13th. His time 8 hr 58 mins, the worlds best are about 8hr 10-15 mins.
Hold your tongue Paul, I know you want to say I don’t mind a bit of running myself. So is cycling your strength John? No I’m a runner actually. 42 marathons, 50 half-marathons. John said my best time for the marathon is 2hr 28 mins. Good job you didn’t open your trap Paul. John said I’m 6 ft flat and 65 kg. He also has ran the South African Ultramarathon (90klm Comrades Marathon) in 6hr 15mins. Whoa impressive John, safe travels, I’m not fit to pump up your tyres!
Day 43 June 3rd Macleod Rest Area
Pulled into Lake Macleod Rest Area for the night. Now you know you are in iron ore country with soil as red as this, the elevated position also enabled me to receive phone coverage.
A game of Finska
Day44 Carnarvan-Quobba
Crossed the Gascoyne River, Carnarvon. Hundreds of trees painted blue after death of young WA man. R U OK Mental Health Awareness
Continue on for our next stop, some shopping in Carnarvon, fuel up, crossing a number of rivers, all red mud in colour after recent rains. Crossed the Gascoyne River, head towards Quobba Blow Hole for the night. Sadly over booked arrived no spaces left, some are free loaders, but who? No host on the gate to check people off. A beautiful family camping spot on safe sandy beaches, it is a holiday weekend in WA. Got our money back, time to look elsewhere.
June 4th-5th Lyndon River
Time for a re-think. Decide to move on to be closer to Coral Bay/ Exmouth. Through Manilya to free camping beside the Lyndon River
Arrived at Lyndon River, and not long behind us was the Rest Area Maintenance Team. They clean all the rest area facilities, replenish supplies for No1 & 2, paint posts, tidy up etc. They travel from Nerren Nerren to Exmouth, up and down the highway and surrounding roads a distance of 750 klm. I said” that’s a big milk round,” and he said, “yea but there are no cows.”
The Lyndon River had flowed over the road, they dutifully placed hazard signs for passing drivers.
We all know Sarah is just on 5’8″ in flip flops, so we met Brodie and Travis a couple of average sized Bronzed Aussies you meet in the country, bathing on the flooded road, as they have no shower. they are on a boys surfing and fishing week on the Coral Coast.
Sunset over the flooded road
Derek and Louise also on an overnight stay, say they travel on this road from Perth to visit their nephew in Exmouth regularly and have not seen the Lyndon before with any water in it.
June 5th Coral Bay
Being a holiday weekend in WA, camp sites are totally booked out, so we travel from Lyndon River for a look and see and some lunch. With a permanent pop. of 200, there would have been 3000 people here for the weekend. Plenty of beaches, no overcrowding, and many things to do.
Coral Bay is a small settlement that lies protected from the Indian ocean by the Ningaloo Reef, It is Australia’s only fringing reef . In contrast to other locations the coral starts right at the water’s edge. The fish and the coral are very accessible to all including small children. Fish and coral are abundant, with turtles, Manta Rays, Whale Sharks come into the area between March & June, Humback Whales between June & October. Access to swim with rays and whale sharks (plankton feeding type 14mtrs long) is easy with a number of tour operators. Booking is essential costs vary between $2-400. Unless you bring your own boat. You can hire glass bottom kayaks, go out in glass bottom boats as well, from about $50-80, all very close to the shore. Snorkelling or Scuba diving is also available on one of the Coral viewing boats. The weather is mild, without the humidity that is often associated with tropical climates.
Wonderful spot and water colours
Finally in the tropics and the first Termite mound
Arrive at Bullara Station.
The Station which sprawls across ¼ million acres is known as Punurrba by the local Yingarrda people, or ‘Seabreeze.’Over three generations the Shallcross family have farmed Merino sheep for wool production, moved onto Meat sheep (Damaras) as dictated by the markets and wild dog impact. Currently the family breed Droughtmaster cattle.
Farming station stays have been a bonus for the unpredictable nature of farming and making it profitable. Many have opened to caravan and campers to supplement their income. Bullara there are about 100 vans and campers, with powered, un-powered, music nights, damper cooking, trail rides, cafe open everyday, cottages to rent. $39 for power or $30 without. Many children & families make this a friendly enjoyable stay
Old wool sheds have been converted into laundries, toilet and shower blocks, & communal rooms for cooking or relaxing with TV etc. We decide to stay for four days.
