June 30th- July 6th
Day 70-76
Some sad news to report, yesterday (29th), 2 x Quad Road Trains collided head-on, this was the road we traveled on early in the day. One would have been fully loaded, the other returning empty, one of the drivers was killed.
The Ironclad Hotel is a well known building built in the 1890s, constructed of corrugated Iron, and given the name by American miners who were reminded of the Ironclad Ships from the United States.
An amusing sign I noticed amongst all the other memorabilia in Marble Bar
Marble Bar is a town and rock formation in the Pilbara region of north-western Western Australia. It is well known for its extremely hot weather, with sweltering summers and warm winters. Most of the annual rainfall occurs in the summer. The town set a world record of most consecutive days of 100 °F (37.8 °C) or above, during a period of 160 days from 31 October 1923 to 7 April 1924. Marble Bar receives 160 clear days annually
Fossilised stromatolites, found near Marble Bar, are one of the earliest forms of life on Earth, dating to 3.5 billion years ago, as is the case at Shark Bay which I mentioned in a previous post, but here we are 400 klm inland.
The town was officially mentioned in 1893 following the discovery of gold in the area in 1890 by a prospector named Francis Jenkins who is remembered by the name of the town’s main street.
In 1891 the town boasted a population in excess of 5,000 as it experienced a rush on the goldfields, today it is less than 250.
Mel front & Centre at the Bar meeting the thirsty customer requirements. With 160 days of 100 °F, Mel would be busy.
We keep going for another 75 klm until we reach Meentheena Veterans Retreat. This is a place for veterans of all services to relax, wind down and have a stress free break, Tim you would enjoy this spot.
Our Camp Host was Dick & Cathy, warm & friendly, many thanks.
5pm is a time to meet at the camp or fire for a friendly chat, drinks and nibbles.
Spent our last night with Ray (Iron ore train driver) and Carol, (from Bristol Uk), we invited them back to the van for some banter and laughter. Carol’s birthday , best wishes
Heading to Tranquility Pool.
Veterans Retreat was set up in 2011 to assist veterans with disabilities, injury or illness because of operational duties. It is on a cattle station (Warrawagine Cattle Co) who have provided the site. It is still being developed and improved.
Tranquility Pool & Paperbark, where we set up camp.
The WA Model A Ford Club, are staying for a few days. They have driven all the way from Perth. This model followed the Model T Ford from 1927 onwards.
This is Peter’s car on its first drive after a rebuild. It has a 3.0 litre 4 cyl flat head motor, towing a teardrop van at 500kg. 10 gallon or 40litre tank. Range 200klm, 125 miles. Thats 20 lt /100klm, same as mine towing 3tn. Well at least fuel efficiency has improved in 90 yrs. Peter said incredibly hot inside the car in warm weather as the heat transfer from the engine, comes up the steering shaft and fire wall onto the accelerator as it is attached to the shaft. No rubber boots or thongs as it will burn a hole in the rubber footwear. Can sit on 85 klm/hr. Peter an ex Vietnam Vet, recited the ode at 6pm.
The Ode
“They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them.”
Thanks Peter to you and all the Ford Club
Carawine Gorge is a little known recreation spot, popular with the Marble Bar locals, as well as visitors who don’t mind getting off the beaten track. Swim in the crystal clear water, or fishing or kayaking, maybe just sit back and admire the abundant birdlife.
6-8 Campers on the bank of this spectacular gorge and beautiful rock formations.
We admired the sheer limestone wall which drops into the clear water below, an enormous billabong, surrounded by thousands of birds, the odd bull and extraordinary scenery.
Carawine Gorge on the Oakover River, which ultimately flows into the De Grey River and out to the Indian Ocean, East of Port Hedland. I use the term “flow” loosely here, as it only really flows during big rain events.
The nearest town is Marble Bar, 174km away to the west. So starting to become remote, with much less traffic. Road Trains are greatly reduced as they do not mine iron ore here but manganese.
Pelican taking off.
It’s on private property and the owners have generously allowed bush camping here. The landscape along the rough dirt track into Carawine Gorge gives no indication of what’s ahead of you. It’s typical Pilbara country, mesas and spinifex with the odd gnarled shrub.
On the way back to Pardoo, a Wedge-Tail Eagle feeding on road kill was unmoved as we passed him on the side of the road, watching us intently. Witnessed a Kestrel swoop onto the road to pounce on an snake carrying it off dangling from it’s tallons. Powerful images.
Overnight stop at Pardoo Roadhouse, lovely spot up to the roadhouse for tea, some footy on the TV, Geelong & Essendon. Back to the van have a chat and a few drinks with Bryan & Pat who originate from Northern Ireland and have been in Australia for 40 years.
We are heading for Barn Hill Station (Cattle Ranch), 340klm north. As BHS is first in, no bookings, we need to position ourselves as close as possible to the station to arrive early to obtain a spot, so we decide to spend another overnight stay at Goldwire Rest Area,(free camp) 50 klm south of BHS.
Lots of vans at this fuel stop going in both directions, plus a local celebrity below.
After managing Thangoo Station for 6 years, in 1966 Alfred Grey purchased the half a million acre property from Frank and Eileen Hamlett, and along with his wife Maria and their 10 children they built a striving cattle business.
In 1986 he gave a small part of land encompassing the landmark Barn Hill to his second youngest daughter Janice.
Janice along with her husband Richard Bell, went on to start a small tourist enterprise, building the original three mud huts.
Word of mouth has spread and Barn Hill quickly grew to the buzzing hub of campers that it is today, embarking on a Kimberley quest, or escaping from the cold Perth winter for months at a time. (how cold, 15-20 deg, that’s not cold)
Barn Hill Beachside Station Stay now sees thousands of happy campers visit annually, it has 60klm of Indian Ocean Beaches
Brahman cattle are known for their extreme tolerance to heat and are widespread in tropical regions. They are resistant to insects due to their thick skin. Brahman cattle live longer than many other breeds, very popular up north and a big export market for their beef.
The camp is 14klm from the main highway along this dirt road, Sarah opening a number of gates until you arrive at reception. Hundreds of campers at Barnhill Station
Book-in with reception, shop, entertaining area, community functions, Saturday Market, refreshments, bowls and music.
The contrast of the red earth, white sands and blue ocean is remarkable.
Boat ramp to beach is a winner for the fishing enthusiasts, or maybe just fish off the beach, not for me, a swim is just dandy.
We have heard about the sunsets up north, well they did not disappoint. Temperature in the high 20’s to low 30’s, winds drop right off by 4.00pm, and overnight lows of around 15-18 deg.
Perfect to watch the sunset from the van. Sunset 5.28pm
Decide to have some nibbles and drinks in a rock pool on the Indian Ocean prior to sunset, and another empty beach Jim.
Finish the night off with Simone providing some music…Now for Broome
